The Céline Spring/Summer 2017 collection, presented at the
Tennis Club de Paris, featured a well known image on the garment from the
Artist Yves Klein's estate.
A quick reflection with regard to the legalities of using this image. From
experience as an academic and researcher on these matters, this is usually
achieved through a licensing deal. The image Anthropométrie de l'Époque bleue
was created in 1960 so copyright still subsists in the image (lasting for the
life of the author + 70 years).
Therefore the fashion house would have ideally licensed the right to use
this image on this dress from the Klein estate. This is a common practice. Last
year, I won the AHRC researchers-in-residence award for a placement to work
with DACS the Design and Copyright Artists Society the visual artists rights
management organisation that represents over 90,000 artists worldwide. DACS
represents, artists like Damien Hirst and notable others. They work toward transforming the
financial landscape for visual artists through products and
campaigns that champion IP rights for the sustained and vital contribution of
artists in the creative economy.
During my time at DACS I focused on the management and
monetization of artist’s creativity through art/fashion collaborations.
It was frequent for established fashion houses to call up
explaining that they wanted to use an iconic or late artists image in their
couture of RTW collections, and with DACS being an artists rights management organisation, the call was often to discuss how the fashion house could go about licensing the
artists IP.
In today’s current climate, it would seem that many
contemporary artists are starting to operate like fashion designers and
embracing the commerciality of their work and new business models that allow
them to continue to monetise their IP.
The merging of fashion and art often appears to be a creative endeavour - however in reality these interactions may be more appropriately viewed as commercial ones. Where both the fashion designer and the artist get to benefit.
The merging of fashion and art often appears to be a creative endeavour - however in reality these interactions may be more appropriately viewed as commercial ones. Where both the fashion designer and the artist get to benefit.
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